Amritapuri

Amritapuri

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Embracing The World

http://www.embracingtheworld.org/

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Amma's Darshan

Our time here at Amritapuri is coming to an end, and I couldn't have had a better closing weekend. Yesterday and today are public darshan days, which means Indians from near and far are flocking here. Adam and I were asked to change flats because there are at least 6,000 people to accommodate. We are now on the 14th floor of the E building and I can't complain; the view in gorgeous, the breeze is strong and there are less mosquito's . Yesterday around 10:30am while moving all of our things to the new flat, we heard three rings of the bell which means Amma is coming to begin giving Darshan in the Bhajan Hall.

After a few hours, Adam and I went down to watch for a little bit before our serving lunch seva. The swammies were playing music in front of the bhajan stage and were flanked by two large screens displaying live footage of Amma giving Darshan. It is the most beautiful thing to watch. People come to her with their troubles and she consoles them or gives them firm advice. People offer her platters of food, fruit, and flowers, they have their malas blessed, they have photos of long gone loved ones blessed, they cry in Amma's lap, they beam with Amma, and they tell Amma jokes.

Because Adam and I are leaving on Tuesday, we were able to get Darshan tokens ( which are of course free). We had to wait until the very end, after all the Indians had gone. Meanwhile, we showered and put on our white Punjab's and headed for the bhanjan stage to give prasad for the first time. Anyone can give prasad once a day. We were able to sit right next to Amma for two minutes, and hand her prasad( in this case, vibuuti ash[burnt cow dung],and a little candy all rolled up in a small paper pouch). You always have to watch Amma's hand, she will hold it out and then you gently place the prasad in her hand. It is pure bliss.

Afterwards, we ate an early dinner of Masala Dosa( a rice/mung flour slightly sour pancake cooked and filled with potato, onion, mustard seeds, chili leaves, ginger, and other spices I can't distinguish) and watched Amma on screen for about six hours. For those of you who are not familiar with Amma it is typical that she gives darshan for up to or more than 24 hours without a break. She has hugged over 26 million people. It is absolutely incredible. She is Devi; she has merged with the Divine and she is a fully realized Guru. She barely eats or sleeps, and she has gracefully taken on 90% of the worlds karma. A devotee once asked her if he could take on a small fraction of that Karma to relieve Amma. She gave him his wish and he immediately fell unconscious ; the pain was too great.

When I am in Amma's presence I feel a tremendous calm. She is the mother of all, and I feel her love and energy flowing into me and I can't help but cry because it is all so beautiful. I feel eternally grateful to be here with Amma in India.

Adam and I got in the darshan line around 12:30 with the determination and intention to ask Amma for a Mantra. The Mantra is a secret between the guru and the devotee, and I have heard many powerful stories from friends here who have used their mantra in trying times and felt immense relief. As the darshan line snaked its way onto stage, I got closer to Amma and I began to cry, just out of joy. I handed her my mala, and said, "Mantra, Amma." She blessed my beads and placed them around my neck all the while smiling and then she pulled me into her lap for the hug. She smells of jasmine and sandalwood; she is immortal bliss. Holding me for a while, she whispered in my ear, "my daughter, my daughter," and smiled at me once more, pressing prasad into my open palm. Adam was right beside me asking for his Mantra too. She never replies, but just by asking her it means yes!

We squeezed our way off the stage and stood in the mantra queue. The woman in charge asked us if we wanted our mantras to be formless or include a representation of what god means to us: light, love, Amma, etc...

Adam and I chose formless which means Amma gives us a mantra that is best for us. Around 1:15 am, after everyone had been given darshan the mantra queue wormed its way back onto stage with Amma. I knelt down in front of her and she pulled me in, whispering my mantra into my ear, and loud enough so that one of her swammies could hear and write it down. Next, she showered me with flowers, a few got caught in my hair and I kept them close, smelling them. I was in bliss. Adam received his mantra directly after me and minutes later we were given a piece of paper with our mantra written in Sanskrit and explaining their meanings. We were also given instruction on how to use them. This is truly bliss.

-Eva

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Nostalgia At Last...

Several weeks ago I discontinued my cleaning Seva in the western canteen and I am now chopping veggies every morning from 7:00am-9:00am. I am grateful for this Seva. I love the morning, and it almost feels cool until the 9:00am heat sets in. It is nice to lend a hand in the food preparation, and it amazes me how some very offensive vegetables are considered edible.

One morning we were gutting pumpkins and cutting them into bite size pieces and it smelled foul, but no matter--the cooks wanted to use it anyways. They made breads and soups and steamed the pumpkin with beets. I avoid pumpkin now. Once while slicing dates my hands were suddenly covered in little black bugs, so I avoid dates too.

The potatoes are consistently good looking; they never stink and rarely do I have to peel away any tinges of green or rotten parts. The beets are quite sullied and there is no way of getting them clean without peeling off the outside layer, but that is not acceptable here. Absolutely no wasting! Sometimes I grate cheese, or juice limes, or cut contaminated carrots and fetid cabbage.

Most often I cube tomatoes for salad, soup, and sauce. I have quickly learned that the women in charge of the western canteen and the veggie chopping have little discernment when it comes to choosing what makes vegetables edible and what makes vegetables a bovine concern. It is an aberration. I would not see this attitude about what good food means in Wisconsin. Perhaps I am a bit spoiled...

And yes, I feel a pang in my chest when I think about fresh, raw, uncooked, seemingly perfect, DDT free vegetables awaiting me 9,000 miles away. I completely understand the idea of not wasting food and I am obviously in full agreement; however, there is a point where you have to choose between eating rotting food or giving it to the cows or composting it. Such are my woes of India...

Eva

Friday, April 23, 2010

Home Song

Oh to be touched, kissed, by the fading sun
A blood spot on the Horizon now
For I am sitting deep in thought
With only the sea to comfort me now
And on the rocks gathered together in fear of loneliness.
I rest my aching feet
And feel the spray of the oceans bliss, lick my toes and spit near my face

And it is fine to fall away from worldly things
That tie me down, like trains, and planes
And silver things that catch my eye
For when I watch the birds up high
Then I think how I can fly
And go as I want from here to there
Without having to pack and brush my hair

And then I think of all my tangles
That are filled with sand and salty sea
Rough and wild, long and free
And I long to be away from here
Home I can trust and wander where I wish
Here is all caution and I can't be me


-Eva

Eating With Our Hands

About two weeks ago now, we had the great pleasure of eating an extravagant Indian feast using our hands as utensils. It began like this....

Sixteen days after an Indian funeral( in this specific case Amma's fathers death) it is traditional to take the ashes that remain from the cremation and transfer them to hand-woven baskets made out of coconut palm leaves and then empty them into the river; however, this part of the ceremony was preformed the day after the cremation because Amma had to go on tour to Australia and would therefore not be present here at the Ashram during the sixteenth day celebration. This of course did not exempt the sixteenth day from being celebrated. The cremation sight was strewn thick with pink flowers and there were many Pujas taking place throughout the day in a temporally constructed hut made from palm leaves.

Adam and I had been in town using the internet, and as we strolled back across the bridge to the Ashram, we saw about 2,000 people gathered on the river bank in front of Amma's fathers house. A beautiful silk tapestry had been hung, enclosing a packed eating area. There were lots of tables and chairs set up, and we got ushered into what appeared total chaos; people washing their faces and spitting on the ground. Many westerners there were utterly confused (us included!), unsure if we were really supposed to be there.

After about 5 minutes of waiting, Adam and I were seated at a table next to two Indian men who had traveled to the Ashram specifically for the feast. As soon, as we had settled in and kicked our feet in the sand under the table, a banana leaf was placed in front of each of us and Indian women immediately began plopping, mango chutney, rice, dhal, spicy ginger chutney, curry, papadum( a chrispy chip thing)on our brilliantly green leafy plates. And then to top it off they filled our cups with a hot, sweet tea to cool the palette from the intense spice we were about to become familiar with.

We dived in with our fingers, pushing the food into our mouths with our thumbs. It was much easier than anticipated. The men next to us showed us how to mix some rice and dhal until it became sticky and then to crush some papdum on top and scoop it up into our mouths. It was exciting and spicy, and we agreed that it was the best meal we had had in India. And I still can't compare any food I have eaten since to that feast.

So, when we now eat Indian food, we eat it with our hands, unless we can't endure the spice, because it is much easier to inflame your lips when you are pushing food into your mouth with your hands than when you are using a spoon and being dainty(they only have spoons here).

-Eva

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Monkey Business!



This guy has been around the Ashram for the past several days. He's pretty funny-- always messing with the crows and yawning, showing off his massive teeth.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

An Indian New Year

Today is the Kerala, Indian new year. There are three different Pujas taking place today. The one I went to began at 4:00am. Being dehydrated and exhausted made me inert and reluctant to get out of bed, but I knew I would probably never experience something like this again. I did a quick tooth brushing and hurriedly got dressed. I elected to take the elevator which was unfortunately filled with bees buzzing around the light. I crouched low, almost touching the filthy mat and waited the nine story decent to the ground.

The outside air was surprisingly cool and very refreshing compared to the stuffy-hot room Adam and I are occupying. I immediately detected a sweet smell of jasmine and it only became more noticeable the closer I walked to the Kalari(where most of the Pujas are performed). The Kalari was unsurprisingly packed full of people, overflowing out of the doorways. The energy was calm and all eyes were fixed on the inner most shrine room, nestled in the back part of the Kalari.

Being a pretty short person, there wasn't a chance of seeing over the sea of heads. I stood there in silence, taking in all the beauty; a metal tree with little dishes filled with oil and wicks, burning strong and illuminating the darkness; subtle orange and yellow flowers strung together and hanging from the entrance and all inside the Kalari; a man holding a gold spoon which held the burning camphor. As he would pass people, they would bring the flame close to their heads and bring the smoke close to their faces. I'm not sure of the significance of this, but I did it anyways.

I was soon ushered into a queue by a squat, watery-eyed Indian man. The Indian people here are not idle; they are constantly moving, working, praying, and graciously telling me how to participate in the ceremonies and so often nudging me forward into the queue. They tell me I need to be more pushy. If you are not pushy and assertive here, you will get budged in line and it won't be considered rude. As soon as I got one foot in the door of the Kalari, I noticed ornate white markings painted on the floor. Again, I am unsure of their meaning, but they are present every time a Puja is taking place.

On my right a young Indian girl in a saffron and red sari was beautifully singing, accompanied by an older man beating a drum. As the queue moved deeper into the small space of the Kalari, I could see people touching their hands to a stone carving of Ganesha(the elephant god, the remover of obstacles) hung precariously on the wall. I did not feel the call to touch it myself, but just gazed on its beauty. As I reached the inner part of the space I was able to kneel down in the doorway of the tiny shrine room. There were more fascinating symbols painted on the threshold and in the middle of the room was a large Amma doll ordained with many jewels and necklaces. On both her sides stood two beautifully blue Krishna figures, their peacock plumes standing out to me. Spread around Amma's feet were many plates of fresh fruit, most recognizably coconuts, grains , sweets, flowers, and burning camphor. People were also offering money as they bent down to pray. I gazed at the scene for some time, I was mollified by the light, the sweet smells, and the music. Then touching my hand to the threshold and placing it on my heart I led myself out of the Kalari to receive Prasad.

First a drop of turmeric paste was placed in my hand and I used my ring finger to mush it onto my third eye(you are not supposed to use your pointer finger to do this because it represents the ego). Next, holy water and tulasi( basil) were placed in my hand. It is customary to take a taste of the water and then dab the rest on the top of your head (your crown chakra). After doing this with the utmost effort not to do anything too sheepish, I received several different kinds of sweets. I have not idea what they were made out of , but I ate them and some were sweet, savory, and one was fried.

The whole experience was extremely calming and I almost felt a since of renewal and a definite boost of energy afterward. I knew Adam would want to come down and be a part of the Kerala new year, even though he told me he didn't want to wake up. I rushed up the stairs and and roused him from a sound sleep. He is quite the deep sleeper. Sometimes he looks like he is awake, but don't be fooled because he is probably still fast asleep! It didn't take any convincing to get Adam to come to the ceremony . We rushed to the Kalari and he went through all the same motions as I did, but I can't say that we experienced that same thing. While I waited outside for Adam to receive Prasad I focused all of my attention on one thought for the Indian new year--may all beings in all the worlds be happy.

-Eva

Monday, April 12, 2010

India



Learning to Surf
View of Amritapuri
Our Amma Shrine
Varkala Beach
Sun Kissed




Lunch
Varkala Beach
Breakfast in Varkala

Friday, April 9, 2010

Yagna Mantra

The Yagna Mantra is chanted here in Amritapuri before meals.

Om
Brahmarpanam brahma havir
brahmagnau brahmana hutam
brahmaiva tena gantavyam
brahma karma samadhina
Om santih santih santih
Om sri gurubhyo namah
hari om

Om, Brahman is the giving
Brahman is the food offering
by Brahman it is offered into
the Brahman fire,
Brahman is that which is to be
attained by complete absorption
in the Brahman action
Om, reverence to the auspicious
gurus, Hari(Vishnu) Om

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Lush

We discover ourselves ....


...Feasting on lush coconuts, taking walks down the trash strewn bumpy pot-holed streets bedecked with little brightly painted houses (my favorite color combination is lime green with vibrant orange trim), drinking black chai tea, and finding new Indian snacks, such as lightly salted wheat crackers, dates, sweet coconut candy mixed with jaggerey, and masala potato chips.


...Spending too much time in the blaring noon day sun and fiercely applying aloe to our scorched backs and feet,wondering what day it is-- it is easy to lose track here. Going on a spontaneous trip to Varkala with two new friends(Jennifer and Vishuanot), and being badgered by men trying to sell drums who won't take no for an answer. Waiting in the filthy train stations at night, and accidentally getting on the wrong train, and finally finding the right one. Taking fast rickshaw rides from Karunagappali to Amritapuri. Buying copious amounts of bottled water.


...Making many new friends from around the world( India, USA, Denmark, Germany, Russia, Romania, Australia, France, and England). Having heated discussions about the life choices of Michael Jackson with our garrulous friend Romina. Listening to the chirping geckos lazily laying on our ceiling, walls, and windowsills. Enjoying the torrential downpours and longing to puddle splash and frolic but knowing better. (It is easy to procure worms from the wet ground.)


... Learning how to pronounce words in Sanskrit. Singing from Amma's Bhajan books and having zero inhibitions to bust out a tune in public. Observing men ferrying woman across the river in narrow wooden boats. Finding dead fish on the seashore. Feeling uncomfortable when men gawk at Adam's lip ring and our white skin. Feeling good when woman smile at us and ask our names. Becoming embarrassed when accidentally responding to an Aussie in an Australian accent. I think I said, "Me's good on Sunday morning."


...Going up and down to and from our room in the unreliable elevator that is consistently losing power. (I don't relish the idea of being crammed in a small space with 8 people for 30 plus minutes while someone rescues us. Thankfully this hasn't happened, yet. ) Watching Pujas take place in the Kalari( Amma's house from childhood; the first place she gave darshan).Taking Ayurveda medicine for digestion, back pain and the nerves--the most foul tasting medicine I have ever swallowed. Thinking about family and friends so far away at home and wondering what they are up to.


...Swimming in the warm, salty , rough Arabian Sea. Surprisingly having no cravings for food from home. Finding ourselves completely accustomed to the replacement of hello, goodbye, thank you and excuse me with the words Namah Shivaya. Itching mosquito bites on our shins and toes. Enjoying the days when we have capricious weather; one minute is is unbearably hot with no breeze, and the next it is windy with loads of rain. Finally, looking forward to 4 more weeks of doing seva, bhajans, pujas, the beach, the rain, the sun, the moon, holy water, smiling faces, and all the smells and sights of this corner of Kerala, India.

-Eva

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Rain

Ah, blessed rain! It's pouring right now. I love when it rains here. The sweltering heat subsides into a beautifully refreshing cool, the wind picks up tremendously, and with any luck some lightning flashes across the sky in a satisfying show of nature's intensity. Such a nice change from the brutal high noon sun that Eva and I suffered from at the beach earlier today.

-Adam

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Ashram Life

Here at Amritapuri Ashram, Seva(selfless service) is an integral part of the spiritual practice of residents and visitors alike. When we work for others without expectation we reap the wealth of a peaceful mind and an open heart. Beyond that, when we participate in the daily upkeep of the Ashram we are in fact helping to maintain the headquarters of one of the most effective and far-reaching humanitarian organizations in India, and thereby bringing the light of love and compassion to the world.


During our visit, we are invited to contribute two hours of Seva daily. I am have been taking breakfast to a Spanish woman who is recovering here in the Ashram clinic. I haven't yet been able to converse with her, because she is perpetually meditating. My other Seva is physically demanding. I sweep, mop the floors, clean counters, and wash dishes in the western canteen.

The time flies though. I work with a Danish girl (Bodil) and an older Irish woman ( Morna). I am subjected to stories of their travels and advice about India--it is lovely. By the time my I am done, I am fully drenched in sweat. It feels good though. I am also randomly asked to help here and there, which I really enjoy.


Yesterday I helped 10 Indian woman carry books up and down the stairs of the Kali Temple. We were arranged in an assembly line, and each time I would hand a book over to Mangalum(the woman next to me), she would ask me a question, and then she would relay my reply to the next women in the line, and she would tell it to the next. So there was this little gossip chain weaving its way up the steps of the Kali temple. I laughed a lot.

Being that it is an average of 90 degrees here and only getting hotter, I go to the pool for an hour in the mornings. At first I thought I would be able to swim in the ocean, but it is extremely rough and dangerous here, so swimming is prohibited. The pool is blissful and the water is clear, unlike the rusty discolored water I use to wash my laundry and shower in. The sidewalk is lined with burgeoning hibiscus, overwhelming the pool side and suffering the impetuous wind which is my saving grace from the hot sun. My western-style bathing suit is of no use to me here, instead, women wear swim dresses; a sort of full body suit that is brightly patterned and fills with air when you enter the water and then makes bubbles as you push it down. I have almost let go of the fact that I won't be getting a tan here because of the strict dress code.


The Ashram is located in a very traditional part of India. In accordance with the local customs, shorts, sleeveless tops, and transparent clothes are prohibited. It is very hard not to think about the heat, and wish I was wearing less material because I am constantly sweating and my skin is sticky. Adam and I are going to take a beach trip to a near town, Varkala. We will be able to be in the Arabian Sea a little bit there. We are also planning on taking a 20 minute bus ride down the road to a swimming beach--we have heard murmurs that there are dolphins there!

The food situation is interesting. There is spicy Indian food for free which includes about three things, watery rice in the morning with spicy sambar, plain rice for lunch with spicy sambar, and watery rice for dinner with spicy sambar. And then you have black chai tea to wash it all down. Lots of variety, right? And then....there is the western canteen--the food is sensational, and pretty cheap, but it adds up quickly. I don't know about other people, but I can only handle so much curry at a time. We have taken to eating the western food for breakfast, pancakes, and cheesy eggs are my indulgence. While eating, everyone has to be aware of the starving animals present. The dogs, cats, birds, and other animals often carry diseases, so feeding them encourages them to remain in the ashram where they might pose a threat. I have had no problems with them, the dogs are quite docile and fat, and I take pity on the scrawny emaciated kittens. Then there are the eagles. Favorite foods: pizza, eggs, toast, and pancakes. They are considerably smaller than the eagles in the states, but they are great at snitching food. At least once every meal time an eagle will swoop down and steal something. I haven't been a victim, yet. Then there are the crows, they are practically everywhere you look. Favorite foods: everything.

Our living accommodations are pleasantly basic. Small mats on the floor for sleeping. One sheet. A clothes line strung low across the room. Three barred windows overlooking the palm forest and the wild sea. One hand washing sink. One sink for doing laundry. One toilet, it is recommended that we don't use toilet paper--we are not accustomed to it yet. And one dinky ceiling fan that does a pretty good job compensating for the hot nights. We are on the ninth floor of 16 floors plus the roof where I hang the laundry. I am terrified of the elevator because it often loses power and I prefer not to be crammed in a small space with 6 people for 30 plus minutes; thus, I take the stairs, and it burns. Great for my legs though.


My jet lag is gone, and I am finally feeling comfortable here. I can fall asleep at 9:00pm now and wake to the beautiful sound of Archana ( chanting the 1,000 names of the Divine Mother). I have yet to attend Archana; I need to purchase the book so I can follow along.

-Eva




Monday, March 29, 2010

Sri Mata Amritanandaymai Devi

Arriving in India was stressful. There wasn't an Ashram taxi waiting for us at the airport as planned, so after much deliberation, we took a prepaid taxi. It was no hay ride; we drove a consistent 85 miles an hour without seat belts, and the driver passed every single vehicle that was in front of us, narrowly missing cars in the other lane. It was a bit terrifying. We couldn't see much of the city while we were speeding through because it was dark; however, I couldn't miss some sights and smells of human waste, burning garbage, forsaken houses, women washing their hair, men meandering the streets, elephants in chains and children playing blithely in the dirt. Thankfully the unpleasant stench abated the farther south we drove. I will admit that during the entire taxi ride I was extremely nervous. What a relief to finally make it to the bucolic Ashram with it's old stone walls, distant views, and an expanse of palm trees.


Upon arriving, we soon found out that Amma's father had passed away, and that Amma had come home early from her North India tour to be present for the funeral. It was a very unique time to arrive at the Ashram-- a very special time. Usually when you see Amma, there are hundreds of people, and here in India there are thousands of people clamoring to get a better view of the Divine Mother (Amma).


We were soon asked to pay our respects to Amma in her father's house. There weren't any queues of people waiting their turn for Darshan. This is so rare. I removed my sandals and walked toward Amma, she was surrounded by beautiful Indian women all dressed in white. I knelt in front of her and laid my head on her lap. She pulled me in and hugged me, kissed my cheek and whispered, "my daughter, my daughter" into my ear. At this point all the anxiety and stress about being in India was released from me and I began to cry. Amma then lifted me up and took my hand, pressing a small candy(Prasad--anything blessed) into my palm, all the while beaming with me. I know she remembered me. It is such a peaceful experience to be with her.


Amma's teachings are universal. Whenever she is asked about her religion , she replies that her religion is love. She does not ask anyone to believe in God or to change their faith, but only inquire into their own real nature and to believe in themselves. Amma's mesasge is: " Children, we shouldn't allow the beauty and grace of selfless love and service to be wiped off the face of the earth. The world should know that a life dedicated to selfless love and service to humanity is possible. Love is a universal religion, and this is what society really needs. Love should be expressed through our every word and action. We already have this love within us in all its fullness. Life cannot exist without love. Life and love are inseparable; they are one and the same. There is one Truth that shines through all of creation. Rivers and Mountains, plants and animals, the sun, the moon, and the stars, you and I--all are expressions of this one reality. The vast pattern of order and the extraordinary beauty pervading Creation make it clear that there is a big heart and an inconceivable great intelligence behind everything."


I am gradually assimilating--I am becoming part of the Ashram for the next 6 weeks.

-Eva




Friday, March 5, 2010

On Your Mark, Get Set...

Only two weeks until departure to India. I am completely nervous and elated. It's like the butterflies in my stomach have had too much to drink and are running into each other; I feel nauseous. It's all so beautiful, formidable, very unfamiliar, imagining that I am one person, embarking on a voyage across rivers, mountains, and the sea. What I love about airplanes is the birds eye view, but without the wind kissing my face of course. I feel very small in comparison to the world, but not any less important. This is everything that I love about an adventure; there is a little risk involved, but it is not unhealthy--just wildly intriguing. I have my loving companion, my security, my devoted family, and my outstanding friends. It is all of you who I will be writing to in the next six weeks, giving you a small window to peep through in the hopes that you might experience a little of India too. So I go forward into the pungent deep of spices, fresh fruit, religion, dust, hot-sticky-air, and complete bliss that is my fantasy India. We shall see...

-Eva