Amritapuri

Amritapuri

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Nostalgia At Last...

Several weeks ago I discontinued my cleaning Seva in the western canteen and I am now chopping veggies every morning from 7:00am-9:00am. I am grateful for this Seva. I love the morning, and it almost feels cool until the 9:00am heat sets in. It is nice to lend a hand in the food preparation, and it amazes me how some very offensive vegetables are considered edible.

One morning we were gutting pumpkins and cutting them into bite size pieces and it smelled foul, but no matter--the cooks wanted to use it anyways. They made breads and soups and steamed the pumpkin with beets. I avoid pumpkin now. Once while slicing dates my hands were suddenly covered in little black bugs, so I avoid dates too.

The potatoes are consistently good looking; they never stink and rarely do I have to peel away any tinges of green or rotten parts. The beets are quite sullied and there is no way of getting them clean without peeling off the outside layer, but that is not acceptable here. Absolutely no wasting! Sometimes I grate cheese, or juice limes, or cut contaminated carrots and fetid cabbage.

Most often I cube tomatoes for salad, soup, and sauce. I have quickly learned that the women in charge of the western canteen and the veggie chopping have little discernment when it comes to choosing what makes vegetables edible and what makes vegetables a bovine concern. It is an aberration. I would not see this attitude about what good food means in Wisconsin. Perhaps I am a bit spoiled...

And yes, I feel a pang in my chest when I think about fresh, raw, uncooked, seemingly perfect, DDT free vegetables awaiting me 9,000 miles away. I completely understand the idea of not wasting food and I am obviously in full agreement; however, there is a point where you have to choose between eating rotting food or giving it to the cows or composting it. Such are my woes of India...

Eva

Friday, April 23, 2010

Home Song

Oh to be touched, kissed, by the fading sun
A blood spot on the Horizon now
For I am sitting deep in thought
With only the sea to comfort me now
And on the rocks gathered together in fear of loneliness.
I rest my aching feet
And feel the spray of the oceans bliss, lick my toes and spit near my face

And it is fine to fall away from worldly things
That tie me down, like trains, and planes
And silver things that catch my eye
For when I watch the birds up high
Then I think how I can fly
And go as I want from here to there
Without having to pack and brush my hair

And then I think of all my tangles
That are filled with sand and salty sea
Rough and wild, long and free
And I long to be away from here
Home I can trust and wander where I wish
Here is all caution and I can't be me


-Eva

Eating With Our Hands

About two weeks ago now, we had the great pleasure of eating an extravagant Indian feast using our hands as utensils. It began like this....

Sixteen days after an Indian funeral( in this specific case Amma's fathers death) it is traditional to take the ashes that remain from the cremation and transfer them to hand-woven baskets made out of coconut palm leaves and then empty them into the river; however, this part of the ceremony was preformed the day after the cremation because Amma had to go on tour to Australia and would therefore not be present here at the Ashram during the sixteenth day celebration. This of course did not exempt the sixteenth day from being celebrated. The cremation sight was strewn thick with pink flowers and there were many Pujas taking place throughout the day in a temporally constructed hut made from palm leaves.

Adam and I had been in town using the internet, and as we strolled back across the bridge to the Ashram, we saw about 2,000 people gathered on the river bank in front of Amma's fathers house. A beautiful silk tapestry had been hung, enclosing a packed eating area. There were lots of tables and chairs set up, and we got ushered into what appeared total chaos; people washing their faces and spitting on the ground. Many westerners there were utterly confused (us included!), unsure if we were really supposed to be there.

After about 5 minutes of waiting, Adam and I were seated at a table next to two Indian men who had traveled to the Ashram specifically for the feast. As soon, as we had settled in and kicked our feet in the sand under the table, a banana leaf was placed in front of each of us and Indian women immediately began plopping, mango chutney, rice, dhal, spicy ginger chutney, curry, papadum( a chrispy chip thing)on our brilliantly green leafy plates. And then to top it off they filled our cups with a hot, sweet tea to cool the palette from the intense spice we were about to become familiar with.

We dived in with our fingers, pushing the food into our mouths with our thumbs. It was much easier than anticipated. The men next to us showed us how to mix some rice and dhal until it became sticky and then to crush some papdum on top and scoop it up into our mouths. It was exciting and spicy, and we agreed that it was the best meal we had had in India. And I still can't compare any food I have eaten since to that feast.

So, when we now eat Indian food, we eat it with our hands, unless we can't endure the spice, because it is much easier to inflame your lips when you are pushing food into your mouth with your hands than when you are using a spoon and being dainty(they only have spoons here).

-Eva

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Monkey Business!



This guy has been around the Ashram for the past several days. He's pretty funny-- always messing with the crows and yawning, showing off his massive teeth.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

An Indian New Year

Today is the Kerala, Indian new year. There are three different Pujas taking place today. The one I went to began at 4:00am. Being dehydrated and exhausted made me inert and reluctant to get out of bed, but I knew I would probably never experience something like this again. I did a quick tooth brushing and hurriedly got dressed. I elected to take the elevator which was unfortunately filled with bees buzzing around the light. I crouched low, almost touching the filthy mat and waited the nine story decent to the ground.

The outside air was surprisingly cool and very refreshing compared to the stuffy-hot room Adam and I are occupying. I immediately detected a sweet smell of jasmine and it only became more noticeable the closer I walked to the Kalari(where most of the Pujas are performed). The Kalari was unsurprisingly packed full of people, overflowing out of the doorways. The energy was calm and all eyes were fixed on the inner most shrine room, nestled in the back part of the Kalari.

Being a pretty short person, there wasn't a chance of seeing over the sea of heads. I stood there in silence, taking in all the beauty; a metal tree with little dishes filled with oil and wicks, burning strong and illuminating the darkness; subtle orange and yellow flowers strung together and hanging from the entrance and all inside the Kalari; a man holding a gold spoon which held the burning camphor. As he would pass people, they would bring the flame close to their heads and bring the smoke close to their faces. I'm not sure of the significance of this, but I did it anyways.

I was soon ushered into a queue by a squat, watery-eyed Indian man. The Indian people here are not idle; they are constantly moving, working, praying, and graciously telling me how to participate in the ceremonies and so often nudging me forward into the queue. They tell me I need to be more pushy. If you are not pushy and assertive here, you will get budged in line and it won't be considered rude. As soon as I got one foot in the door of the Kalari, I noticed ornate white markings painted on the floor. Again, I am unsure of their meaning, but they are present every time a Puja is taking place.

On my right a young Indian girl in a saffron and red sari was beautifully singing, accompanied by an older man beating a drum. As the queue moved deeper into the small space of the Kalari, I could see people touching their hands to a stone carving of Ganesha(the elephant god, the remover of obstacles) hung precariously on the wall. I did not feel the call to touch it myself, but just gazed on its beauty. As I reached the inner part of the space I was able to kneel down in the doorway of the tiny shrine room. There were more fascinating symbols painted on the threshold and in the middle of the room was a large Amma doll ordained with many jewels and necklaces. On both her sides stood two beautifully blue Krishna figures, their peacock plumes standing out to me. Spread around Amma's feet were many plates of fresh fruit, most recognizably coconuts, grains , sweets, flowers, and burning camphor. People were also offering money as they bent down to pray. I gazed at the scene for some time, I was mollified by the light, the sweet smells, and the music. Then touching my hand to the threshold and placing it on my heart I led myself out of the Kalari to receive Prasad.

First a drop of turmeric paste was placed in my hand and I used my ring finger to mush it onto my third eye(you are not supposed to use your pointer finger to do this because it represents the ego). Next, holy water and tulasi( basil) were placed in my hand. It is customary to take a taste of the water and then dab the rest on the top of your head (your crown chakra). After doing this with the utmost effort not to do anything too sheepish, I received several different kinds of sweets. I have not idea what they were made out of , but I ate them and some were sweet, savory, and one was fried.

The whole experience was extremely calming and I almost felt a since of renewal and a definite boost of energy afterward. I knew Adam would want to come down and be a part of the Kerala new year, even though he told me he didn't want to wake up. I rushed up the stairs and and roused him from a sound sleep. He is quite the deep sleeper. Sometimes he looks like he is awake, but don't be fooled because he is probably still fast asleep! It didn't take any convincing to get Adam to come to the ceremony . We rushed to the Kalari and he went through all the same motions as I did, but I can't say that we experienced that same thing. While I waited outside for Adam to receive Prasad I focused all of my attention on one thought for the Indian new year--may all beings in all the worlds be happy.

-Eva

Monday, April 12, 2010

India



Learning to Surf
View of Amritapuri
Our Amma Shrine
Varkala Beach
Sun Kissed




Lunch
Varkala Beach
Breakfast in Varkala

Friday, April 9, 2010

Yagna Mantra

The Yagna Mantra is chanted here in Amritapuri before meals.

Om
Brahmarpanam brahma havir
brahmagnau brahmana hutam
brahmaiva tena gantavyam
brahma karma samadhina
Om santih santih santih
Om sri gurubhyo namah
hari om

Om, Brahman is the giving
Brahman is the food offering
by Brahman it is offered into
the Brahman fire,
Brahman is that which is to be
attained by complete absorption
in the Brahman action
Om, reverence to the auspicious
gurus, Hari(Vishnu) Om

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Lush

We discover ourselves ....


...Feasting on lush coconuts, taking walks down the trash strewn bumpy pot-holed streets bedecked with little brightly painted houses (my favorite color combination is lime green with vibrant orange trim), drinking black chai tea, and finding new Indian snacks, such as lightly salted wheat crackers, dates, sweet coconut candy mixed with jaggerey, and masala potato chips.


...Spending too much time in the blaring noon day sun and fiercely applying aloe to our scorched backs and feet,wondering what day it is-- it is easy to lose track here. Going on a spontaneous trip to Varkala with two new friends(Jennifer and Vishuanot), and being badgered by men trying to sell drums who won't take no for an answer. Waiting in the filthy train stations at night, and accidentally getting on the wrong train, and finally finding the right one. Taking fast rickshaw rides from Karunagappali to Amritapuri. Buying copious amounts of bottled water.


...Making many new friends from around the world( India, USA, Denmark, Germany, Russia, Romania, Australia, France, and England). Having heated discussions about the life choices of Michael Jackson with our garrulous friend Romina. Listening to the chirping geckos lazily laying on our ceiling, walls, and windowsills. Enjoying the torrential downpours and longing to puddle splash and frolic but knowing better. (It is easy to procure worms from the wet ground.)


... Learning how to pronounce words in Sanskrit. Singing from Amma's Bhajan books and having zero inhibitions to bust out a tune in public. Observing men ferrying woman across the river in narrow wooden boats. Finding dead fish on the seashore. Feeling uncomfortable when men gawk at Adam's lip ring and our white skin. Feeling good when woman smile at us and ask our names. Becoming embarrassed when accidentally responding to an Aussie in an Australian accent. I think I said, "Me's good on Sunday morning."


...Going up and down to and from our room in the unreliable elevator that is consistently losing power. (I don't relish the idea of being crammed in a small space with 8 people for 30 plus minutes while someone rescues us. Thankfully this hasn't happened, yet. ) Watching Pujas take place in the Kalari( Amma's house from childhood; the first place she gave darshan).Taking Ayurveda medicine for digestion, back pain and the nerves--the most foul tasting medicine I have ever swallowed. Thinking about family and friends so far away at home and wondering what they are up to.


...Swimming in the warm, salty , rough Arabian Sea. Surprisingly having no cravings for food from home. Finding ourselves completely accustomed to the replacement of hello, goodbye, thank you and excuse me with the words Namah Shivaya. Itching mosquito bites on our shins and toes. Enjoying the days when we have capricious weather; one minute is is unbearably hot with no breeze, and the next it is windy with loads of rain. Finally, looking forward to 4 more weeks of doing seva, bhajans, pujas, the beach, the rain, the sun, the moon, holy water, smiling faces, and all the smells and sights of this corner of Kerala, India.

-Eva

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Rain

Ah, blessed rain! It's pouring right now. I love when it rains here. The sweltering heat subsides into a beautifully refreshing cool, the wind picks up tremendously, and with any luck some lightning flashes across the sky in a satisfying show of nature's intensity. Such a nice change from the brutal high noon sun that Eva and I suffered from at the beach earlier today.

-Adam